Monday, October 12, 2009

More change necessary

To tie up our Restaurant Week tour, Mike and I visited Sea Change-- the new restaurant that occupies the old "Cue" space at the Guthrie Theater. It was a chilly, brisk night with misty rain. From the moment we walked in the door, the mood almost matched the weather. Although the decor was cool in a kind of "10,000 Leagues Under the Sea" kind of way, the first impression was a little cold. When we checked in at the host stand, we were greeted with apathy-- not the kind of attitude I expected on a bustling Friday night at a fledgling Twin Cities hot spot.

From our table, you could see the open kitchen and some very large ocean creatures behind glass. It was fun to see the chefs at work-- calling out orders, wielding some serious pieces of cutlery, and creating the very dishes I have been reading about in local magazines for the last few months. However, when our server finally came by, I was snapped out of my amused daze by his hurried tone and unenthusiastic introduction. We had already figured out drink orders, and how we wanted to begin the meal. I asked for Malpeque oysters, but was corrected on my pronunciation. Normally I handle something like this just fine, but it rubbed me the wrong way after he proceeded to pronounce the word 3 different ways during the conversation.

When the oysters arrived, they were presented very attractively with 3 different dipping sauces. We quickly enjoyed them, and then made room for the bread that was promised 20 minutes before. For our entrees, I had the prosciutto crusted sturgeon, and Mike had the sea scallops. These two dishes were spectacular. The sturgeon was cooked perfectly, and the prosciutto acted like a pleasantly salty crust that sealed in all the great flavor. There was a sweet pea sauce, and tiny rock shrimp mixed in. Mike's scallops had a great spicy smoke to them, and were served with chorizo, sweet corn, and a hint of lime. However, it's really rare that I say this, but when I had finished my entree, I was still hungry. Usually on a more a la carte type menu, you are given side dish options, but that wasn't the case here. And, as for dessert, there wasn't really anything that we felt we couldn't live without. So, it was home to the couch and pajamas, and I was snacking within the hour.

So...I wanted to love it. It is a Tim McKee (aka 2009 James Beard award winner) brainchild, and I love the whole sustainable emphasis they place on everything from the building's materials, to the food and water put on the table. But, what I felt was something short of love. I think the apathy wore off on me after a while, and that's what I was left with. I think at some point we'll go back, but with so many great metro offerings, it won't be soon.

www.seachangempls.com

Sea Change on Urbanspoon

Thursday, October 1, 2009

It's the most wonderful time of the year...

No, not Christmas. Not that I have anything against Christmas, but I'm talking about what really floats my boat--Restaurant Week. The time of year that you can get out and try some great Twin Cities fare at a seriously cheap price. I mean come on, a three course dinner at the Capital Grille for $30? You can't beat it.

To kick off the week, my boyfriend Mike and I went to Cafe Ena in the Tangletown area of South Minneapolis ("Ena" comes from the name of their young daughter--how cute!). They describe themselves as Latin Fusion cuisine that was inspired by trips through Latin America. They wanted to bring some of that big flavor from south of the border to the south side of our big city. From what I found, they did just that.

When you walk in you can smell the fresh flavors that are to come--the citrus, the spices, and a lot of garlic! It was a very intimate, comfortable setting with a lot of rich woodwork and a very open dining space that you could view what was going on in the kitchen from every seat. To start out, I ordered a glass of Malbec for only $3 (!), and Mike had a Coke which came in an old fashioned glass bottle. The bread course was served with warm butter that was infused with roasted red peppers and garlic--it was that good crusty bread that had a soft center. I had to practice some good restraint not to finish the whole basket myself! The first appetizer was a crab and avocado terrine drizzled with a very lemony oil and accompanied by fresh made tortilla chips. It was an unexpected explosion of flavor--a little different at first, but it melded together nicely once my tastebuds were fully awake. The second appetizer we tried was the Queso Fundido which was pan seared cheese topped with avocado sauce and pico. It was good, but I think we had expected the creamy cheese you find in most Latin restaurants. In retrospect, we should've tried two things that had a little more contrast in flavors, but both were good stand-alone dishes. On to the entrees... I had the halibut with wild mushroom risotto, spinach, and a truffle butter cream sauce. It was fresh tasting, but absolutely rich and decadent at the same time. The fish was perfectly cooked and I loved the layering of flavors. Mike had prosciutto-wrapped grouper stuffed with crab, and garlic mashed potatoes. Although he liked it, the crab didn't mesh with the grouper as well as he had pictured. For dessert we had churros served with warm chocolate ganache and cinnamon ice cream. The churros reminded me of the ones you'd get at Taco John's, but unfortunately not as good. The accompaniments however were lovely--the churros just became a vehicle for getting the ice cream and chocolate into my mouth.

The final verdict of Cafe Ena: We would definitely go back, but we'd tweak our choices a bit. After all, life is about choices and trying new experiences, and this is one we're glad we had.

www.cafeena.com

Cafe Ena on Urbanspoon