More change necessary

To tie up our Restaurant Week tour, Mike and I visited Sea Change-- the new restaurant that occupies the old "Cue" space at the Guthrie Theater. It was a chilly, brisk night with misty rain. From the moment we walked in the door, the mood almost matched the weather. Although the decor was cool in a kind of "10,000 Leagues Under the Sea" kind of way, the first impression was a little cold. When we checked in at the host stand, we were greeted with apathy-- not the kind of attitude I expected on a bustling Friday night at a fledgling Twin Cities hot spot.

From our table, you could see the open kitchen and some very large ocean creatures behind glass. It was fun to see the chefs at work-- calling out orders, wielding some serious pieces of cutlery, and creating the very dishes I have been reading about in local magazines for the last few months. However, when our server finally came by, I was snapped out of my amused daze by his hurried tone and unenthusiastic introduction. We had already figured out drink orders, and how we wanted to begin the meal. I asked for Malpeque oysters, but was corrected on my pronunciation. Normally I handle something like this just fine, but it rubbed me the wrong way after he proceeded to pronounce the word 3 different ways during the conversation.

When the oysters arrived, they were presented very attractively with 3 different dipping sauces. We quickly enjoyed them, and then made room for the bread that was promised 20 minutes before. For our entrees, I had the prosciutto crusted sturgeon, and Mike had the sea scallops. These two dishes were spectacular. The sturgeon was cooked perfectly, and the prosciutto acted like a pleasantly salty crust that sealed in all the great flavor. There was a sweet pea sauce, and tiny rock shrimp mixed in. Mike's scallops had a great spicy smoke to them, and were served with chorizo, sweet corn, and a hint of lime. However, it's really rare that I say this, but when I had finished my entree, I was still hungry. Usually on a more a la carte type menu, you are given side dish options, but that wasn't the case here. And, as for dessert, there wasn't really anything that we felt we couldn't live without. So, it was home to the couch and pajamas, and I was snacking within the hour.

So...I wanted to love it. It is a Tim McKee (aka 2009 James Beard award winner) brainchild, and I love the whole sustainable emphasis they place on everything from the building's materials, to the food and water put on the table. But, what I felt was something short of love. I think the apathy wore off on me after a while, and that's what I was left with. I think at some point we'll go back, but with so many great metro offerings, it won't be soon.

www.seachangempls.com